Gym-to-Crag Essentials

Ready to hit the rock? Here’s the top 5 pieces of gear you need to take your climbing outdoors this season.

You’ve got shoes, a harness, and chalk. You’ve been climbing the grade ladder at the gym and want to experience the beauty of climbing in nature. But what gear do you need to make it happen? We’ve got you covered.

 

 

1. Helmet

We’re starting off with a helmet for a reason: This is an essential piece of gear to have if you want to push your climbing to the next level and avoid brain injury. Gyms use fibreglass holds, wooden volumes, and mats, but the crag is not so forgiving. Some climbers may tell you they think they look cooler without a helmet; we disagree! A proper-fitting helmet looks great and allows you to push the grades worry-free.

One last thing to remember about helmets: They are used to protect both the climber AND the belayer. We’re based in Southern Ontario where most of our crags are composed of chossy limestone and seasonal freeze-thaw cycles cause lots of rockfall every year. You can do everything right, but it’s not up to you when a hold decides to come loose and rain down on your belayer. This video is a sobering reminder of why it’s important to wear your helmet at the crag even when you aren’t climbing.

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2. Rope

You’ve used ropes in the gym countless times, but what do you need to know when picking out one for yourself? Your first rope will be a dynamic single rope, and there are three main things to consider when choosing one; the first is length. Routes for outdoor climbing vary in height depending on location, so knowing where you’re planning on climbing can help you decide. There are options going down to as little as 30m for use in gyms, and up to 80m for extra long routes. A safe bet and the most common length for rope is 60-70m.

With your rope length selected, you’ll want to pick a diameter within the 9.2-9.8mm range, with most climbers choosing around 9.5mm. If you plan to climb ice in the future or expect to be climbing in inclement weather, a dry-treated rope won’t absorb water and will retain its strength and light weight in wet conditions.

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3. Quickdraws

Now that you’ve got your rope, you need a way to keep it attached to the wall. Quickdraws are made of 2 carabiners connected by a sling or “dogbone”. One end clips into the bolt hanger on the rock, and the other is used for clipping in the rope. The first thing you need to think about before even deciding which quickdraws are for you is the amount you'll be getting. Your needs will depend on the locations you’ll be climbing in, but most people start with 12. Any less than this and you may find yourself severely limited in the routes you can choose to climb. This information can sometimes be found in guidebooks or online resources.

Quickdraws come in various lengths and most climbers settle around 12cm, but it’s a great idea to have at least a couple of quickdraws in a different length than the rest of your quiver for situations where the rope-end carabiner is resting in an awkward or dangerous position. There are also various types of carabiner gates depending on whether you’re looking for weight savings, comfort, or value.

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4. Belay Device

If you’ve been climbing at gyms around us in Ontario, you’ll be used to the Petzl GriGri - and for good reason. It’s a reliable active assisted-braking device that’s user-friendly and is the industry standard when it comes to safety. The good news? It’s also an excellent option for outdoor sport climbing. And for even better performance feeding rope, the new Petzl Neox is gaining popularity.

That said, heading outside opens up a few new options you might want to consider. Devices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso are lighter, more compact, and offer multi-pitch versatility that allow you to belay a climber below you, as well as rappel down a rope which cannot be done on the GriGri. For weight savings and excellent performance, check out the Mammut Smart 2.0, which provides excellent braking assistance and belaying comfort for single-pitch climbing. These devices are more affordable and have no moving parts. We also offer innovative new devices like the Edelrid Pinch which allow you to eliminate a locking carabiner from your belay setup. Whatever device you choose, practice with it at ground level first, and make sure your belaying is just as dialed outside as it is indoors.

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5. Personal Anchor System

When you’re cleaning a sport route, transitioning pitches, or setting up a rappel, a Personal Anchor System makes the process safer and faster. Instead of fumbling with slings and knots, a PAS gives you an easy, secure connection to the anchor.

There are several styles available but we prefer the adjustable options that allow you to place yourself at the perfect distance from your anchor. Our favourites are the Petzl Connect Adjust (also available in a dual option for extra redundancy connecting to two anchors) and the Edelrid Switch Adjust.

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With these five essentials in your pack, you’ll be ready to take your climbing adventures outdoors. See you at the crag!